Apple season means apple pies, and my favorite are those apple pies packed with apples, not overly sweet, and with a buttery crust. The problem with baking thick apple pies is that the apples shrink as they cook, leaving a gap between the crust and the apples, which usually collapses upon cooling. The trick is to gently cook the apples first, so that they do their reducing before they go in the pie. I settled on this recipe after trying several; it draws its crust from a mile-high apple pie recipe in Oprah Magazine and its method adapted from a method for deep-dish apple pie in Cooks Illustrated.

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