Pacific Black Cod Escabeche

Escabeche is a dish of Spanish origin in which fish is marinated in an acidic marinade. Somewhat similar to ceviche, but the fish is cooked a bit first. Because of the acidity of the marinade, the dish lends itself to fatty fish, especially mackerel. When I first had this version of escabeche, prepared by Chef Sean Bernal in the Bahamas, it was with a wahoo fish, and all I could think of was how good it would taste with mackerel. Unfortunately for me I haven’t been able to find any fresh mackerel (or herring, or sardines for that matter) in Sacramento. The fishmonger at Whole Foods recommended pacific black cod (also known as sablefish) as a substitute because it is fairly oily (and packed with omega 3s). The fish may seem a little delicate for the task, but you know what? When I prepared it, it firmed up beautifully overnight. I also tried it with tuna, but the tuna ended up being too steaky for the dish, it didn’t flake like the black cod. Because of the acidity, you can’t eat too much of the escabeche at once. It does work great though, for quick fish tacos. Just take a basic cheese taco and add a bit of the fish, peppers and onions. Normally you wouldn’t use melted cheddar in a fish taco, but because the cheese cuts through the acidity, it works.

The escabeche reminds me a bit of pickled herring, a staple in Norwegian buffets and Minnesota pantries, and also a bit of mackerel sushi, for those of you sushi lovers. Do you have a favorite escabeche recipe? or even pickled herring? If so, please let us know about it in the comments.

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Pacific Black Cod Escabeche Recipe

  • Yield: Serves 4-8.

You can eat the escabeche a few hours after you prepare it, but the it will be better if you let it marinate for a day. The fish will firm up and have a better texture. Regarding the habanero, the original recipe called for a scotch bonnet, which is hard to find out here. One might think that a whole habanero would make the dish too spicy, but it was actually the perfect amount for this dish.

Ingredients

  • 3/4 cup olive oil, divided
  • 2-3 red, yellow, and green bell peppers, seeded and julienned
  • 1 white onion, julienned
  • 1 carrot, julienned
  • 1 habanero or scotch bonnet chili, seeded and minced
  • 1 cup white or cider vinegar
  • 3/4 pound pacific black cod (sablefish) fillets, pin bones removed, cut into 4 inch pieces
  • Salt and pepper
  • 1/2 cup flour for dredging
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 6 allspice berries

Method

1 Heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a large sauté pan on medium high heat (do not be tempted to cut back on this amount of oil, it is needed for the marinade). Sauté the bell peppers, onion, carrot and chili until softened, 5-10 minutes. Stir in vinegar, remove from heat, and set aside.

2 Pat the fish fillets dry with a paper towel and sprinkle them on both sides with salt and pepper. Place flour on a plate and dredge the fillets in the flour on both sides. Heat remaining 1/4 cup of oil a frying pan on high heat. When the oil is hot (but not smoking), add the fish fillets to the pan. Cook on one side for 1-2 minutes, then flip and cook the other side for 1-2 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan when they are only half-cooked through, as the vinegar in the marinade will finish the cooking process.

3 Place the partially cooked fish fillets in a non-reactive dish, such as a ceramic or pyrex casserole dish. Spoon the vinegar vegetable mix over and around the fish. Refrigerate overnight. The fish will finish "cooking" in the acidic marinade and will become firmer. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Serve on a small plate, or on a crostini for an appetizer. Or add to a cheese taco (cheddar in softened corn tortilla) for a quick fish taco.

Will last several days in the refrigerator.

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Recipe adapted from a wahoo escabeche prepared by Chef Sean Bernal of the Oceanaire Seafood Room in Miami, Florida.

Links:

Wahoo escabeche - as recounted by Matt Armendariz of Matt Bites
Stephanie Izard's Mussels with fennel escabeche
Hank's classic fish escabeche - from Hank Shaw

6 Comments

  1. ladybellringerm

    Elise, thanks for the fish recipe! I’m always on the lookout for them. I’m from Minnesota, and while I certainly do enjoy the occasional piece or two of pickled herring, generally my family is eating more walleye, crappie and sunfish. Have you got any recipes for them? I’ve found that it’s fairly easy to find recipes for salt water fish, and generally I can substitute walleye for any whitefish, but besides frying freshwater fish, it’s difficult to find really good recipes for them.

  2. Garrett

    This was amazing in a cheese taco. Sweet, sour, crunchy, and the perfect flavor of fish. Honestly, the only thing I was upset about was that I only got to eat two of them.

  3. Sandra

    Jamaicans use whole red snapper for this dish. We fry the snapper until cooked through and crisp on both sides then saute onions, bell peppers, scotch bonnet pepper, thinly sliced carrots(optional) then add the vinegar and pour over fish.
    I will certainly try the taco version as it sounds really delicious.

  4. caroline

    I just saw a recipe for escabeche (I think it was in this month’s Gourmet magazine) and it sounded so good but I’m not crazy about sardines. This version sounds perfect! Thanks!

  5. Kim

    We make black cod / sablefish according to Roy Yamaguchi’s recipe: marinated in miso, mirin, sake, and sugar, but with ginger lime beurre blanc, over rice and steamed baby bok choy. On the Roy’s menu is is called “butterfish”.

    http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5114034/

    The great thing about black cod is that it’s a sustainably fished, relatively inexpensive, easy to get on the West Coast fish.

    I’d like to try this other treatment of black cod, too!

  6. Marie

    Suprisingly, Tilapia makes an excellent ceviche – would probably work here,too.I tried it several years ago at the booth of a South American importer at the Boston Seafood Show and went home and made it for my retail customers to try. They loved it! Just be sure of where your tilapia comes from – try to avoid the Chinese. Too much risk of chemical contamination.

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